L’Escalade et la Course de La Marmite: Geneva’s wild parade!

By Yuval Israel, Year 11

L’Escalade is a traditional Genevoise carnival containing a blend of humor, tradition and commemoration of the past. Honored in winter, on the 12th of December, the celebration is celebrated with races to commemorate the victory of Geneva over the troops of the Duke of Savoy. 

In 1602, Geneva, a sole republic, was ambushed by the Savoyards. Charles Emmanuel I, Duke of Savoy, swore to capture and turn Geneva into the capital of his powerful nation. On the night of the 12th of December, one of the darkest nights of the year, the Savoyards crept silently in order to launch an ambush. 

Thousands of soldiers surrounded the city walls, and had begun scaling the walls with ladders (scaling is the translation of “Escalade” in French where the name of the celebration derives from). Several misconceptions about the battle exist, and some are worth highlighting:

  1.  A watchman had fired his “Arquebus” in order to wake the city. La Clémence, the bell of Saint Peter’s Cathedral, rang the alarm to wake the city in momentum.
  2. As many Genevoise children may know, the courage of Mère Royaume should not be neglected. La Mère Royaume, also known as Catherine Royaume or Catherine Cheynet, was stewing a cauldron of vegetable soup late at night when she took notice of a soldier scaling her wall, Inadvertently, poured the scalding hot soup and threw the metal cauldron on the head of the soldier. Automatically, the soldier let out ghastly cries which woke the drowsy civilians. This created the beloved tradition of the symbolic chocolate cauldrons filled with vegetable-shaped marzipan sweets to commemorate la Mère Royaume’s humorous victory and her dedicated heroism to Geneva. She is recognized as the symbol of the Genevoise resistance against the Savoyards and as the heroine of the battle. 
  3. Another heroine worth mentioning is known as Dame Piaget. Afraid of the gruesome Savoyards, she threw the key which allowed the Genevoise resistance to ambush the enemy from behind. This allowed the resistance to run through the old town and ambush the enemy. 

These stories told by generations and generations of Genevoises created traditions which keep the spirit of these heroes alive.

Comforting traditions such as simmering a pot of boiling vegetable soup and breaking the “Marmite” is a classic example, however, one celebration really places the emphasis on the spirit of l’Escalade. 

The “Course de la Marmite” is a non-competitive, costume race open to both the young and the elderly, and takes place through the old town of Geneva. Starting in Parc des Bastions, hundreds of people arrive to view the innovative costumes. Music, decorations and food stands are all part of the carnival to encourage citizens to come view and enjoy the spectacle.

 From 1978, the citizens of Geneva have not been disappointed in terms of costumes, nor in terms of energy from the runners. This costume parade brings citizens and visitors together to view and participate in this winter carnival which consists of nothing short of artistic perfection to resemble the humorous spirit of the citizens of Geneva.